Baby powder, adhesive tape, paper clips, glue, pins, thread, rubber bands, pencil, file, pliers, bees wax; the list of items found in an archer's kit is as endless as the variety of items found in a house wife's sewing basket. The simile does not end there as the bowman too is apparently unable to discard an item of tackle which has outlived its usefulness. Look in any tackle box and a goodly portion of the contents is made up of worn out tabs, old shooting gloves, outsized arrow nocks, discarded bow sights, and perhaps several bow strings from bows which have long since been retired or relegated to the attic. Even the expert archer is a pushover for any new type of bow that comes on the market.
Rarely does the novice appreciate the need of a tackle box, and it is seldom included in the items of tackle listed in his initial purchase. When the novice has been shooting for some time he learns that certain supplies must be at hand to make immediate repairs in the field. Broken arrow nocks must be replaced, serving renewed, or loose fletching reglued. Many things can happen which will terminate an afternoon's pleasure unless the required materials are available for replacement or repair. In the early stages of the game, a friend's tackle box will generally produce a needed item so that shooting can be continued. A few occasions demonstrate to the novice the importance of the repair kit and the spare parts contained in the tackle box. Any one who has arrived at the shooting field only to discover that some essential part of his tackle has been left at home, immediately concludes that a tackle box is a necessity and not a luxury.
The average retail price of a tackle box is around twenty dollars. This figure is apparently a prohibitive price or the archer just naturally enjoys building his own tackle box.
archery equipment
What ever the reason, a casual examination of the tackle boxes brought to any shoot will show a wide variation in design and workmanship. Many of the boxes reflect the individual owner's ideas on arrangement and accessibility of tackle. Some of the boxes are end-opening and others have a hinged top. Arrow racks may be fixed or removable and contain from one to four dozen arrows. Each tackle box is provided with a compartment which contains the repair kit and the necessary accessories. I have seen custom made boxes that served as a seat for the shooter while he waited his turn on the shooting line. If your hobbies include wood working, you will probably have chosen the type of tackle box that you believe will best meet your requirements, and need no further advise on its construction. Those of us who do not own a variety of wood working tools would be wise to undertake the task of constructing a tackle box of simple design which can be readily cut out and assembled with a minimum of hand tools.
The tackle box shown in the illustration, Figure 43, is rectangular in shape with an overall length of thirty inches, a width of ten inches, and a height of six and seven-eighths inches. A single partition separates the interior of the tackle box into two compartments. The larger compartment is six inches in width and provides space for the arrow rack which holds two dozen arrows. The remaining compartment provides ample space for ground and belt quivers, shooting glove, tabs, spares, and repair kit.
The only tools necessary to construct this tackle box are a saw, hammer, carpenter's square, a brace or hand drill, and a yard stick which you can borrow from the family sewing room. The hand drill or brace is needed for the construction of the arrow rack. Two bits will be required, one bit should be 11/32 of an inch in diameter in order to drill the series of holes required for the dowels, and the other bit should have a diameter of 5/16 of an inch to drill the series of holes required for the arrows. If you are using wooden arrows, check their diameter to make certain that the dimension given is large enough to permit the entry of the arrow. If you have a friend who has a drill-press, lay out the work and take it to him. He will drill the required number of holes in a matter of a few minutes. A bottle of furniture glue, a one-quarter pound box of one inch by seventeen wire brads, a ten cent assortment of small brads and nails that can be purchased at the dime store, and a sheet of number one-half flint paper completes the list of materials. In the event you choose to use wood screws instead of wire brads to assemble the box, you will need in addition to your other tools a screw driver and a small bit to drill pilot holes for the screws to prevent splitting the wood. Wood screws are preferred because they have better holding qualities than the wire brads, although more labor is necessary to assemble the box.
The case may be constructed of plywood. If you choose to use plywood, ignore the bill of material accompanying the plan in Figure 43 and use three-eighths inch material for the sides and one-quarter inch material for the top and bottom. Instead of plywood, I selected an easily worked wood such as clear Ponderosa pine. If the planing mill does not carry three-eighths inch finished stock a full ten inches in width, ask them to split a one inch by twelve inch board, seven feet and six inches in length, in half on their band saw; and then dress each half to exactly three-eighths of an inch in thickness by ten inches in width. I had this done and although the boards will cup slightly because of the changes in the internal stresses in the lumber, the boards will not split or crack if the work is completed within a reasonable length of time. The finished lumber should cost about $4.00. Lay out all cuts carefully as you do not have material to waste. Check your measurements and the work frequently in order to avoid mistakes. Note carefully that the illustration indicates that the top and bottom of the box are of different dimensions. The bottom fits inside the sides, while the top of the box which forms part of the lid covers the sides.
Begin the work by cutting out the sides of the case which measure thirty inches by four and one-quarter inches. Then cut out the ends. The overall width of the case is ten inches. From this dimension we must deduct twice the thickness of the finished lumber, in this case three-quarters of an inch, which makes the required length of the end pieces nine and one-quarter inches. Make a temporary assembly of this portion of the work. This will enable you to visualize the completed box and will serve as a check against your calculations for the dimensions of the top and bottom. The interior length of the case will measure twenty-nine and one-quarter inches. This dimension controls the height of the arrow rack which is constructed so that its overall length does not exceed twenty-nine inches. Use the same order of procedure in constructing the lid of the tackle box.
The next step is to take down the temporary assembly, apply glue to all joints, reassemble and screw or nail the various parts together. To assure a good bond, apply the glue in accordance with the manufacturer's direction and do not attempt to hurry the job.
To construct the arrow rack, cut three rectangular pieces to the dimensions shown in the detail of A and B, and round off the corners to one-quarter inch radius. With a pencil lay out the grid carefully as dimensioned in the detail in the illustration on one of the pieces. Fasten two of the pieces together temporarily and bore all the holes through both pieces. Separate the pieces and using one for a template, bore the four corner 11/32 of an inch diameter holes half way through the remaining piece. This last piece is designated as C in the sketch of the assembled arrow rack.
Assemble the arrow rack by inserting the four 5/16 of an inch diameter dowels through the corner holes of pieces A and B. Just before each dowel reaches its final position, apply glue to the surface of the dowel. Apply glue to the bottom ends of the dowels and insert them in the sockets bored in piece C. Stand the arrow rack on its base C and check the vertical and horizontal alignment by inserting an arrow in several positions in the rack. Make any adjustments necessary to permit free entry and remove the arrows. When you are satisfied with the alignment, drive one-half inch by twenty wire brads at each corner of plates A and B to fasten the plates and dowels securely in their final position. Invert the rack and drive brads from the bottom of plate C into the ends of each of the dowels.
The necessary hardware will cost about one dollar and fifty-five cents and consists of one pair of one inch by three inch hinges, two catches, one three inch handle, and the necessary complement of wood screws with button heads. Metal corners can be added to this hardware list if desired.
Use the flint paper to smooth all exposed edges, wipe clean with a dry cloth, and the box is ready for the finish coat. Mix two parts of turpentine and one part of boiled linseed oil to make about three-quarters of a cup of the mixture. Flow this mixture over all the surfaces. The wood will absorb most of this oil mixture on the first application. After an hour's time, wipe off any excess with a piece of clean, lintless soft cloth. Repeat this oiling operation a day later. However, a longer period can be allowed to elapse without harm. A third oiling may be applied if it appears that the wood will absorb any more oil. Set the tackle box on four small wooden blocks so that air may pass freely over all the surfaces and let the box remain until it feels perfectly dry when rubbed lightly with the palm of the hand.
The tackle box is now ready for waxing. Use some of the liquid polishing wax that the family keeps on hand to polish the furniture or dig out your can of Simoniz that you use to polish the car and give the tackle box a good coat.
The total cost of your new tackle box, exclusive of labor, will approximate six dollars and fifty cents. You will quickly learn to keep all of the necessary tackle and accessories in the box where every item will be available when you need it. Sooner or later you will realize that a tackle box is a must. Don't let the retail price discourage you from owning one. Build your own. The one described in this chapter has given several years of service and complete satisfaction.
